Story time:
Today I did one of the most exhilarating things I've ever done. I went out surfing
with a friend. I'm a beginner so I just expected to paddle around and
watch him do his thing.
It was around 10am when we paddled out,
Manhattan beach, crowded, full of life. We suited up and grabbed our
boards and found a stretch of ocean to call our own. The waves
thundering with power as we slowly paddled, we dove under a wave, then
another. My friend, the more experience surfer said
"this is a solid spot, let's check it out for a bit." I watched him
look at the waves, reading them like words in a book, knowing what's
coming next. I couple waves that I thought were good passed us. I was
confused, he was determined. I was sitting on my board when he shouted:
"Rene get ready". I popped onto my stomach and put the board under me as
least clumsily as I could, I faced the beach and noticed we were
somewhat far for my liking. Then I heard him yell "PADDLE HARD NOW!!"
I gave it my all, hands paddling like I was trying to beat a world
record, heart beating like I just had my first kiss. Then I felt the
wave behind me, I then readied my arms and mustered any strength I had
and pushed myself onto my feet in one swift motion, looking forward
where I wanted to go. One foot landed dead center on the board and the
other one on the back, I started looking up and saw the beach
approaching fast, faster than I expected, then I quickly realized that I
was on my feet, on a wave,
riding it for the first time ever, about 3
second of pure unadulterated exhilaration later, I lost my balance and
ate some serious bubbles. I resurfaced happier than I've ever been.
Today, I surfed a wave and I'm even more hooked.
I also saw a dolphin. Pretty neat.
